Julia's Favorite New Food

The video says it all...

The World's Greatest Sandwich

I had originally come up with an inventive and funny way to start this post.  I was going to draw a parallel between myself and Joey Tribbiani from "Friends", as we both share an intense love of sandwiches.  I scoured the internet for a clip I can so vividly remember, but could not find.  When quizzed about his favorite food (which many people assume is pizza), we learn that his favorite food is in fact, sandwiches!

This was the closest I could find... it's not exactly on target and the video quality is terrible - but it still made me laugh out loud and I thought could work well enough.

For those of you that weren't fans of the show, "Friends" (all 3 of you) - Joey Tribbiani is a fun-loving, womanizing, "foodie" who craves [among other things] sandwiches.  Perhaps this love of meat and cheese folded between two pieces of bread comes from his Italian heritage, because as I'm learning - Italians have perfected the art of the sandwich (hereafter referred to as panino or the plural - panini).

On Sunday, Jen and I decided to go to Milano - a forty-five minute drive from our hometown in Como.

Julia playing with pigeons in front of the Duomo in Milano

Jen had heard about a wonderful flea market that is only open the last Sunday of every month.  So we bundled up with lots of layers and departed at the wee-early hours of 11:00am (and that was rushing to get out the door).  On the way, we consulted the internet to tell us what else to do for the day and found out about a wonderful restaurant with over 100 types of panini.  We cross-referenced Trip Advisor and read some wonderful reviews of the food.  In my mind, it was a lock we were headed to Bar della Crocetta for lunch!  By the time we finally got to the flea market (after a few wrong turns), it was already time for lunch - so instead, we re-routed the GPS to Bar della Crocetta.

Bar della Crocetta

Un-assuming facade matches the charming interior perfectly

When we walked in, we were greeted by several friendly, buon giorno's and found a nice cozy spot in the corner.  After reviewing the menu's for several minutes (in both Italian and poorly translated English), we gave up and asked our friendly server to help us pick two sandwiches and something for Julia.  Her selections were wonderful.  And since Julia didn't want to wait for her panino, they gave us a plate and told us to help ourselves to the bar full of food.

Delectable treats to hold us over

Our excitement grew as we watched delicious panino after panino come from the kitchen.  We were not disappointed!

They tasted as good as they looked!

AMILACARE - golfetta (salami), brie, scamorza cheese, lettuce, tomato, etc.

BIG - prosciutto crudo, fontina cheese, shrimp, lettuce, tomato, etc.

Julia's Ham and Cheese - prosciutto cotto, fontina cheese

We couldn't be happier.  Julia jumped right in and preferred to take big bites on her own as opposed to the small pieces her mom cut for her.

Big bites from a little girl

"Boy is that goooood"

When we were winding down, Julia was just getting started!  She decided she didn't want any more of the prosciutto cotto (cooked prosciutto, basically ham) and wanted her favorite... salami!  If I can ever get the video to load properly... we have a funny video of her demanding salami after her first discovery of it's deliciousness!

We could hear the staff laughing and repeating her cute request of salami - or as she says it... "LAMI".  The trouble was, we had already finished our sandwiches.  What we didn't know was that they weren't just discussing her unique accent - they were actually putting together a plate of her own salami.

A plate of salami - brought just for Julia

"I'm in heaven"

With our bellies full and our mood's elated... there was only one thing left to do  in order to finish the meal.  Have our espresso!!

The necessary post-meal caffè

If you find yourself in Milano - please go enjoy Bar della Crocetta and tell our servers we said "Ciao and Grazie!"

Happy Hour - Although This One Was Unhappy!

What a wonderful tradition happy hour is!  A time when friends can gather and join in a few post-work drinks and perhaps a little nibble to eat.  We've always known happy hour to be a 5:00pm - 7:00pm (ish) time to partake in a few cocktails at a discounted price.

Caffè Mazzini - Our favorite Happy Hour in Como

We were pleased to find that the tradition of "happy hour" also exists in Italy and it's even called the same thing (just imagine saying it with a funny little accept... drop the sound the "h" makes).  However, it's a bit different here.

Instead of discounted drinks and food, you usually pay the same price for the drinks (which always tends to be low anyways... between $4 - $6) but get a big bonus.  ALL YOU CAN EAT heavy hors du louvres - Italian style!!!  Imagine a bar full of pasta, pizza and other wonderful treats.  If you're not to embarrassed to fill a plate - you can easily have enough for dinner.

Since eating and drinking are two of my favorite things to do thus far on this trip (Greg), we've explored a few of the best happy hours the city has to offer (literally every place that serves drinks or coffee puts some sort of food out after 5:00pm).

However, today (after exploring the market *previous post*) - we encountered our first bad happy hour experience.  We came across, Specialita` Apretivi - where the food looked better than any we had seen before.  The combination of a desire for a good glass of wine, a hungry baby and Greg's rumbling stomach drew us in like a magnet.

Jen and Julia out front of Specialita` Aperitivi

Since we're still a bit embarrassed to just start eating the food after ordering a drink, we also ordered two panini's to fein an appearance of reputable patrons.  This did not impress the waitress - she gave us more attitude than a teenage girl with a limited texting plan.  My perfect command over the pronunciation of our hard-to-pronounce Montepulciano and Nero d' Avola did nothing to win her over either.  Attitude = Strike ONE!

While we waited for our wine to come, I kept glancing over at the delectable spread presented before us and decided which treats I'd try first.  The wine came quickly and it was the smallest pour we had seen in any restaurant this entire trip.  Strike TWO!

Some of the food at Specialita` Apretivi

Nevertheless, I shrugged these things off and made a B-line for the tomato and mozzarella panini.  Insert screeching halt sound here.  Wait a minute, these treats are only for people that ordered an aperitif, not a wine (even though they're priced the same).

-"OK... well, can I have some of your free food anyways?!"  
-"No... you cannot!"

While my family that reads this shrieks in embarrassment... I did not actually say that.  But my body language sure suggested it.  And still, the answer was "no".  Strike THREE - we're out of here.

Some more images of the tasty food we couldn't eat...

...all because we ordered the wrong drink!

So... we headed home to much better meal, prepared by Jen (pasta in a pesto sauce and a "finnocio" (fennel) salad with fresh bread and wine.  Also, don't feel too badly for us after the crushing happy hour experience.  Since we believe in controlling your own destiny - we stopped and got ourselves a "pick-me up" to make up for it!

Pastries from a pasticceria (pastry shop) 

Delizioso!

Cheers!

Saturday Market in Como

Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday there is a market on the north side of Como.  It exists just outside the old fort wall that surrounds the original city.  There is a collection of over a hundred vendors, most which arrive in their vans and vend from open doors.

Vans - vending on the other side

We strolled through and decided there was nothing we needed before moving on to a late afternoon snack (more on that in a subsequent post).  Below you'll see a collection of the random items you can purchase if you so choose.

The Market

Some "fine" jewelry

Snacks

Books

Shoes

Anything you can imagine

And of course... even the dogs show up in high fashion

Now you see why we didn't need anything.  But of course, it was still fun to walk around!

Christmas in Italy

OK - we realize it's nearly February and people are more inclined to think about Valentine's Day than Christmas... but it's still cold and snowy and hey - who couldn't use a little holiday cheer any time of year.  So, if you'll forgive us for posting about Christmas at the end of January - than you'll certainly excuse the fact that these pictures were taken last year!

Christmas is such a special time in Italy - we didn't want to miss a posting about this wonderful event and some of the local traditions.  When we arrived  on January 4th - all the lights and decorations were still present, but we didn't have an opportunity to photograph anything.  Therefore, we had to use some from last year's library.

Lake Como's Duomo - lit up at night

Starting in early December, you'll find lights and decorations sprinkled throughout each Piazza and cobblestone street you encounter.  In front of every church you'll see a "presepio", a nativity scene  that is always presented wonderfully and illuminated each night.  If you venture into the suburbs (or look up toward the windows in most cities), you'll see hundreds of little Santa's trying to climb their way into someone's home.  And you're sure to hear "Buon Natale" (Merry Christmas) at every turn.

"Let me in!!"

Of course, Christmas is also on December 25th - but the celebrations don't stop until after "La Festa dell'Epifania" (The Feast of the Epiphany) when on the Eve of the Epiphany (January 4th) the "Befana" (Witch) delivers candy to all the good children and brings coal to all the naughty children.  Wiki Link on the Befana.  My intimate knowledge of this subject comes from Julia's childrens books - and basically what I've derived is that the Befana went to bring the baby Jesus sweets and sweep up his room since his new mother would be exhausted.  So now on the Eve of January 4th - she comes and sweeps up little childrens rooms and gives them candy.

A stroll on the streets of Lake Como

The lights on the Duomo in Milan are gorgeous, and we've read about other cities that have wonderful presepio's or stunning decorations - but our absolute favorite is seeing the light display in our own town of Lake Como.  Images are cast across buildings, churches and even the streets and municipal buildings.

Some shops in the main piazza 

Another angle

We loved the "icicles" hanging off the ledge

The "snow" would cascade down the buildings

Como's Teatro Sociale

Even the otherwise boring government buildings join the party

"Friends of Como - Merry Christmas"

Another wonderful tradition in Lake Como is the market that assembles for several weeks in the winter months - right in the main square, the Piazza Cavour.  Here, you'll find vendors of meats, cheeses, breads, goods and our personal favorite - vino cotto (cooked wine), which is commonly known as mulled wine.

"Make mine a double please!"

Fourth Time's the Charm - Our Cell Phone Experience

Whoever said the "easy-going" Italy lifestyle is "easy" was pazzo (crazy).  Take for example our experience in obtaining cell phones.

We thought it would have been simple.  We both have unlocked iPhones that only required a TIM card (the same as a SIM card in the US - you just have to slide it in... batta-bing, batta-boom).  We had been briefed that there are no cell phone plans; you simply pre-pay for the week, month or year.  We had decided to get plans with voice, data and text - just enough to help us find each other if separated and maybe find a good trattoria (restaurant) if we were in a new city.

So one nice day (maybe 3 days into our trip), we decided to walk across the street to the local TIM store.  The woman did not speak any English and we didn't feel comfortable picking a plan blindly.  So we did what we always do... we asked Jen's uncle Franco (who lives upstairs) for his help.

His reaction surprised us a bit - he told us we should not have gone to that TIM store.  Why... oh, because it's mafioso!  I kid you not... we are now going to have to consider whether or not to give mafia-runned businesses our patronage.  Incidentally, the bakery and restaurant in that strip mall are also mafioso and should be avoided!

We were instructed to go to Como, to a nice reputable TIM shop.  So the next day, we packed Julia up and parked in a lot that gave me exactly 1" clearance on each side of our vehicle.  When we walked into the store, we were relieved to discover the young lady spoke a little English (enough to get by).  So when we settled on a plan, we prepared to commit to our new plans.  Until she asked for our passports. Ohhhhh... we need passports for phones??  Of course we do!

Our reputable TIM Store - Franco Approved!

So, the next day - we tried again, this time with Passports in hand and a plan picked out.  So we went to another local TIM store in our favorite grocery store (Bennet).  This time, a cranky baby refused to wait the 30 minutes it was taking to help the previous customer and we tabled the task once again.  We later discovered that TIM store was ALSO Mafioso and should be avoided too (but the grocery store that it's in is perfectly fine).  

By now, everyone seems a bit shocked that we still don't have phones - but what more can we do?!!  We decided to go back to the Bennet a day or two later (despite the Mafioso tag) and get it done.  We waited and waited and waited, but finally found someone that can help us and GOT OUR PHONES ACTIVATED!!

A little bonus... cell phone plans are super cheap.  For 6 Euro's a week, we have more than enough voice, data and texting capabilities.  Unfortunate component... he couldn't explain to us how expensive it was to call the US, but by making out his shocked expression and hand gestures - we gathered it's not cheap!  Good thing there's FaceTime!

All Things Are Just a Little Different...

I think this will be a recurring theme... most differences are charming, some can be frustrating and all of them can be humorous when looked at in the right light.

A perfect example of some of these differences that "welcomed" us to our new life in Italy was our own house key *  There are normal keys right next to it so that you can get a proper scale.

Didn't know we were living in a bank vault!

*And when we say "our house", we really mean Dominic and Diane's beautiful home that they have so graciously allowed us to live in for the next year.  We'll do a separate post with pictures of the place as well.

Touching Down in Italy

We knew the deadline was coming for months... January 3rd was staring us in the face for a long time.  January 3rd rustled up feelings of excitement (me and Jen), nervousness (Jen...ok, me a little) and stress (mainly me).

It got here before we were ready.  We still had a list a mile long on January 2nd and I don't think either of us were as prepared as we thought to say goodbye to our friends and family.  Jen's girlfriends threw an incredible send-off hosted at Mike and Aubrey Ciatto's home.

Aubrey and Mike's beautiful home - nice touch with the flag

And then... all of a sudden, we woke up on January 3rd.  We hugged our first set of goodbye's to my parents, Julia's "Pop-Pop and Grandma" in Darnestown, and got a little misty when my usually stoic parents both shed a couple tears.

Next, we started our entourage-like caravan with Jen's family and our massive amounts of luggage to Dulles International.  Dom had the foresight to make a move that helped with our travel more than he may have known.  He flagged down a caddy to assist with our ample amounts of luggage (four massive checked bags, two massive carry-ons, four personal items, a stroller and a car seat).  This patient gentleman asked Jen to stand in an unending line, while he escorted me to the front to unload our luggage.  He told me to guard my luggage while I waited for Jen to wind her way through the  line and meet me so we can check in at our proper place in line.

"Arrivederci"

When no one moved after 15 minutes, it became quickly apparent the flight was delayed.  Actually... not delayed.  Non-existant.  The plane was still grounded in Sweden due to "technical errors" (must have been a new Boeing Dreamliner).

Picture this... Jen is standing in line, behind about 40 very upset, very impatient travelers.  I am standing at the front with a mountain of luggage to meet her.  After some time, I started to inch my way toward the first class line and "acted as if" I belonged there.  As soon as a spot finally became available, I walked right up and asked about our options.  We were put on a flight with a sister airline departing immediately that got us in Milan only three hours behind schedule.  I heard a rumor it was one of the last flights of it's kind and given the fact that they could only help about one person every 20 minutes... I'm thinking we were the last three seats on that plane (I know, I should probably feel a little guilty about this... but most of you know me well enough to know that I don't).

We were escorted to security by Jen's parents, "Nonno & Nonna" and her sister, "Zia Jess" and the second round of tearful goodbye's commenced.  Dom gave us an encouraging look and with the confidence and support of the whole family - we rushed to make our plane.

We touched down on January 4th weary, smelly, hungry, and over-tired.  But we were also very excited and thrilled.

We realize this is a very long and detailed post.  It is our first on this blog (or any blog), so fear not - I'm sure that due to time constraints and a sheer lack of will power, most future postings will be much shorter.  So hang in there and please continue to read about our tales.  We hope that blogging about our adventure is as fun for you to read as it will be to write and experience.

Ciao Amici!

-Greg, Jen and Julia