Thursday, April 25, 2013

A Castle? OK… I'll Take Two!

I did it!  I saw my first castle.  It was wonderful - so tender and caring.  And it lasted all morning!  A first I'll never forget!
Hohenwerfen Fortress
When we drove into Austria, the hardest part after visiting Innsbruck (read about it HERE) was choosing which castle to visit.  We had already planned on visiting Salzburg next, so I carefully chose among the four major castles near the city.  I settled on Hohenwerfen Fortress about 40 km southeast of Salzburg.  The plan was simple - leave Innsbruck early and drive straight to the castle.  We would spend an hour or so at Hohenwerfen Fortress and then head to our hotel in Salzburg.  My plan was solid - but I underestimated how much fun we'd have at the castle, and we ended up staying nearly four hours.

The original fortification was started nearly 1,000 years ago and has withstood an interesting history full of war, civil unrest, fire and constant expansion and re-construction.  The castle sits high atop a 155m rock in the town of Werfen, Austria.
The castle commands a view of the entire valley
A watch guard's view from one of the towers
The original fortress was commissioned in 1075 by Archbishop Gebhard of Salzburg (along with it's "sister" castle Fortress Hohensalzburg, which we saw two days later).  It was built as a stronghold during the Investiture Controversy, a beef between Kings and Popes that somehow lasted nearly 50 years.  What were they were fighting over, you ask?  The right to appoint church officials, such as Bishops and Abbots.  I didn't understand why this was such an important issue for the monarchies, but after reading a bit on the battle - I was not surprised to learn it boiled down to one of the three major "fighting follies" (as defined by me… term is patent pending).  It always boils down to money (to include lands), ego (to include power and legacy) or a woman (self explanatory).  Back then, the title of Bishop came with a substantial amount of wealth and land.  And since a title was simply a commodity that could be appointed by a king… the monarchy could sell the title and make a tidy little profit.  So, in this case - it was about money (although, I wouldn't be surprised if there was a woman in there somewhere).

In one corner, we had King Henry IV - a German King since the age of 6.  And in the other corner, we had Pope Gregory VII (I'm pulling for him… his name makes him seem trustworthy.  And probably good looking).  The Pope essentially claimed that since the Roman church was founded by none other than God, it's power to appoint Bishops lay solely with the Pope himself.  King Henry (now a man) disagreed and vocalized it in a public letter to the Pope, essentially starting a 50 year battle-royale, beginning in 1075.  And so the Archbishop of Salzburg (an ally of my man, Gregory) built three major castles as protection against the German king.  The ending you ask?  Well… everyone should know, you don't mess with a Gregory!  The Papacy gained the right of appointment.
Lower courtyard
Even though this castle had a long and bloody past, our visit was rather tranquil and quite pleasant.  At the base of the great rock (upon which the castle is perched) we had the option of riding a funicular (cable car) or walking up a path.  Since it was early in the day and the weather was perfect, we opted to walk.  Julia also enjoyed stretching her legs after being in the car for two hours.
"Look mom, I'm a hiker!"
Julia was definitely happier walking...
...and exploring!
View of the valley from the path
Entering through the gates
The castle's main fortification walls
There was a house inside the gates that was inhabited - groundskeeper?
Admission to the castle (€11 per person) included quite a bit.  A walking tour with audio guide, an impressive falconry display of flight, an illuminating exhibition on the construction of the castle, an interactive history of weaponry and a museum on the history of falconry.  You can see why we were there for four hours!
Julia particularly enjoyed the audio guide
The falconry show was about to begin
Our timing through the castle gates was perfect.  Just minutes after we bought our tickets, the flight show commenced, featuring many different types of falcons and other birds of prey.  It was purely breathtaking.
The Falconer explains the presentation 
She shows us the first Falcon
One of the falcons in flight
Naturally, the birds loved taking to the air 
The Falcons got right in the crowd
My favorite part was the majestical eagle.  The falconer had some fun with the crowds.  He would prompt these great birds to fly just a few feet over our heads. It was a great way to start the castle tour.
The eagle - our favorite
He's headed right for us
RIGHT FOR US!!!
Next, we moved on to the guided castle tour, which was in German.  Fortunately, we got electronic audio guides that we used.  The tour guide herself was trilingual so she was able to field all our questions.  It took some time to navigate through the chapel, prisons, torture chambers, royal quarters, bell tower and more.
We're about to go in!
Love the turrets
View of the monarchies chambers and courtyard
Birds in flight - another demonstration had commenced
The castle's chapel, reconstructed in the 16th century 
Bob here, simulates an archer at his post 
This stone weighed 1/2 ton - no problem for me!
A device in the torture chamber  
Our group crammed into the torture chamber
A scene along the tour
The loo - it opened straight down the side of the outer wall 
400 year old wood floors in the bell tower 
Jen and Julia climbing to the top of the bell tower
The bell would sound to wake everyone up
Julia tried to ring it
We spent some additional time walking around the various parts of the castle, including the main courtyard, and museums of weaponry and falconry.  We also grabbed a light lunch at the restaurant in the original dining hall of the castle.
Julia in the courtyard
Playing on one of the unicorns (FYI - I nailed 4/5 rings from 12' out)
Bell tower (reconstructed in 1826 after a fire) 
Julia in the dining hall before her lunch
I was more than happy that my first real castle didn't disappoint!  Next, we headed off to Salzburg… a lot more on that wonderful trip to come!

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

"G'day Mate" from Innsbruck, Austria

Strange… not only did they not say, "g'day mate" in Austria - they spoke German!  Oh well, what're you gonna do?!
Innsbruck, Austria
After we spent four wonderful days in the Dolomiti mountains (which you can read about HERE and HERE), we planned an impromptu trip to Austria.  The Dolomites span across the northern end of the Italy, just south of Austria.  A quick google search confirmed that we could arrive in Innsbruck in under three hours and the opportunity was too good to pass up.  Once we explained our plan to visit Innsbruck to Claudia's cousin, Angelo - he suggested we also stop by Salzburg.  Well, what's another couple hours drive and another day or two?  After all, we didn't think we'd be back in Austria anytime soon.

I spent our last night in Canale D' Agordo (Italy) booking an Innsbruck hotel, researching tourist attractions and planning our itinerary.  I was up early, with breakfast in my belly and our luggage in the car by 8:30am.  We got on the road at 11:30am.

The GPS took us on small streets winding through the mountains, as opposed to the faster Autostrada - and that was perfectly fine with us.  The drive into Austria was probably the most pleasurable drive I've ever undertaken.  While I loved chauffeuring my wife and baby, I must admit that I did envision instead riding my motorcycle; and sadly missed my poor Harley, sitting all by it's lonesome in Maryland.
View from the road departing the Dolomites
A two-lane tunnel shooting through the mountain
Jen and I were awe-struck by the mountainous scenery; but also impressed by one noticeable phenomenon.  Once we crossed over the border into Austria, there seemed to be a castle or fortress at every turn.  I was nearly giddy - I've been on a caste-hunt since I moved to Italy.  And now I was as excited as a boy on prom night, knowing my first castle was just around the corner.
We were greeted by a castle almost immediately upon entering Austria
Older fortresses lined the newer road
We arrived in Innsbruck around mid-day and checked into our hotel.  We set out to walk and enjoy some of the sights the city had to offer.  Our hotel was centrally located (thank you, booking.com), so we wound slowly through the old city toward the funicular (cable car up the mountain).  Innsbruck has astonishing mountains surrounding the entire city, and we intended on elevating ourselves high enough to command a view of the entire city.
The Old City in Innsbruck
Great architecture
A pretty church peeking out
Along the way, we saw signs for the city zoo - an attraction I had read was enjoyable for families.  Since it was on the way, we decided to let Julia have some fun of her own.  What we didn't realize was the trek was going to be quite challenging by foot.
Talk about your uphill climb!
We were tempted to stop here, but we pushed on
We continued to climb for over an hour on steep vertical streets until we finally arrived at the zoo.  We eagerly entered, excited to take a break from the climb up the mountain.  Oooohhh… so sorry!  Since the zoo was literally built into the side of a mountain - the zoo itself wound upward still.  I guess that explains why the mountain goats had one of the most impressive exhibits (and one of my favorites).
Alpenzoo - we made it!
Majestic wolf - he had just finished dancing with Kevin Costner
Large brown bear who got within feet of us
Julia wanted to play with a bear of her own
There was a petting zoo for Julia, who always loves getting a chance to pet the cute farm animals.
"Stop watching moooo eat!!!" 
Adorable lil guys!
"Uhh, mom - these guys are a little scary"
Stopping for a quick drink 
"Mommaguarda (look)!"
As we wound our way through the zoo's path, we spotted various bird sanctuaries just off to the side.  Everyone had the option to enter and get face to face with various birds (without any glass or cages).  I opted to go in each one, but Jen has a small fear of birds so she didn't go in any of these exhibits.  However, strangely enough - the path eventually led us directly into one of these sanctuaries.  There was no going around it, so Jen would have to confront her fear.  Well, how bad could it be?

As we were walking through (a distance of maybe 20 yards from beginning to end) we first noticed the bird's lunch - recently digested and lying about four feet from where we were walking.  It did not help Jen discover a newfound confidence in these winged mammals.
Lunch?!  Ummmm, are we next?!
Next, we came face to face with the great bird itself, taking a drink after it's lunch.
"Oh, he doesn't look so bad"
"Well, he's coming closer"
"Umm, and closer!" (at this point - he was hissing)
Here is Jen, gripped by fear and making a dash for the door
This guy was clearly not happy we had come into his world.  He perched atop a nearby rock and hissed until we both cleared from his home.  I couldn't help but laugh at Jen's gripping fear coming full surface.  That is, until I had to walk past him myself.  I'd be lying if I didn't say I hugged the right side of the wall.  Next, we came to another one of these death cages.  Only, this one was marked by heavy chains!!!  What is this?!  Some kind of torture zoo?!  What type of carnivorous bird was in this exhibit?!
What lies behind the chains?! 
Nothing but a bunch of these cute, little guys.  WHEW!
After we finished at the zoo, we walked the short way to the funicular.  The ride up was fun and the view was truly worth it.  We stopped to get a bite for Julia - something that proved to be either a mistake or a wonderful turn of events (depending on how we decided to look at it), as we missed the final cable car by mere minutes.  We started the long walk down, a bit nervous about how long the walk might take.
The funicular station 
Jen and Julia at the base of the station
View over Innsbruck
The beautiful mountains surround the city
We thought it wise to follow a sign to the zoo, quite some distance below.  I knew I could easily get us home from the zoo and so following the sign (as opposed to the actual road) seemed smart at the time.  We had no idea this particular route would add a significant amount of time... but also give us a memory of Innsbruck we'd always cherish.
A sign we saw later, noting the path
We didn't seem to notice as the road narrowed, and then the pavement disappeared.  We were too taken with the beauty of nature and the view of the city in the twilight.
City view as the sun sets
A portion of the funicular 
When the path started making sharp turns and the branches and rocks started bouncing Julia's stroller more than a lowrider with hydraulics - we realized we made a mistake.  As it turns out, our Italian is far better than our German.  The signs we saw pointing toward the zoo were for mountain bikers - we had begun a trajectory that wound us deep into the woods, on a steep descent.  There was just enough daylight to keep Jen from worrying too badly and so we made light of the situation.  I pointed out the positives - it was certainly a much more direct route down the mountain… and when else would we have an opportunity to hike through the hills in Innsbruck?
The path here was still fairly simple
It got a bit trickier - I took over the stroller
At one point, we found a vast clearing in the woods used as a small campground.  I reassured Jen that if we couldn't find our way out of the woods, we had a wonderful place to camp.  She reminded me that we didn't have any camping gear - I refrained from joking that our love would protect us.
A clearing along the way
Charming old bridge we passed by (but not over)
Back on a solid path, nearly at the bottom
It was dark by the end of the journey 
We crossed one final bridge to get back to the city
At long last, we made it the base of the mountain just as the sun had set.  We rejoiced at our good fortune and decided a celebration was in order.  Since Julia was already fast asleep, we grabbed a bottle of wine and had a little party for two in our hotel room.
The main clock tower, back in town
Innsbruck is simply wonderful and we would love to have been able to spend more time there.  But I had already planned the next day, and Hohenwerfen Fortress (my first castle) was calling my name.